\u9ea6\u7a08\u771f\u7530)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
It is said to have originated around 1871, inspired by the straw hats worn by foreigners in Yokohama.<\/p>\n
\u201cBakkan Sanada\u201d developed from traditional straw craft techniques that had long existed in certain regions of Japan. Wheat stalks were flattened and then braided by hand into long, narrow strips.<\/p>\n
It was produced as a source of supplementary income for farming families during the agricultural off-season, particularly in rural wheat-growing regions such as Okayama and Saitama.<\/p>\n
Wheat straw has a natural lustre unlike that of man-made materials. When it catches the light, each strand reflects it delicately, creating subtle changes in appearance depending on the angle from which it is seen.<\/p>\n
It is also light and breathable, making it particularly well suited to hats for the spring and summer seasons.<\/p>\n
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Bakkan Sanada was later exported to Europe and North America, where it came to be widely used within an already well-established hat-making industry.<\/p>\n
At the same time, Bakkan Sanada was something made in farming households within rural regions where wheat was grown in abundance.<\/p>\n
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It was a form of handcraft born from everyday life, making use of materials found in the surrounding land.<\/p>\n
Something made by hand in the Japanese countryside travelled across the sea and became connected to the hat-making industries of Europe and North America.<\/p>\n
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Behind the straw hat lies this kind of history\u2014one that connected distant places through material and craft.<\/p>\n
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Today, however, the production of Bakkan Sanada has almost disappeared, as new materials have become widespread and lower-priced imported products have increased.<\/p>\n
And yet, there is something that can only emerge from working directly with a material and shaping it slowly, little by little, by hand.<\/p>\n
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It is a time-consuming way of making things, but I believe it creates an expression that could not exist without that process.<\/p>\n
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IRIES H.M. carries forward these traditional hat-making techniques, not simply to preserve them, but to transform them into contemporary hats through the designer\u2019s own sensibility.<\/p>\n
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At IRIES H.M., a range of models are created using different braided materials, with each model given a Japanese name.<\/p>\n
One of these materials is called Straw.<\/p>\n
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This is the series made using Bakkan Sanada<\/strong>, introduced earlier.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
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This is the KANKAN model from the Straw series.<\/p>\n
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The Straw used by IRIES H.M. is made from hand-braided Bakkan Sanada measuring just 3.5 mm in width<\/strong>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
According to the designer, this 3.5 mm braid is an exceptionally rare specification that is almost never seen today.<\/p>\n
Beginning at the crown, the braid is sewn in a continuous spiral, gradually building the shape of the hat.<\/p>\n
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Hats made by sewing long, narrow braided materials such as Bakkan Sanada into a continuous spiral are known as braid hats<\/strong>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
The braid is sewn little by little, with the maker constantly adjusting the tension and handling by hand, until it first takes the form of what is known as a hat body<\/strong>\u2014the stage before the hat is shaped and blocked.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n
One of the defining characteristics of IRIES H.M. is that the brand makes these hat bodies itself, entirely within its own atelier.<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
While many hats begin with a hat body that has already been made, IRIES H.M. starts one step earlier\u2014with a single length of braid.<\/p>\n
The 3.5 mm Bakkan Sanada is sewn from the crown, one circle after another.<\/p>\n
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As the spiral gradually expands, what began as a flat strip slowly transforms into a three-dimensional form that will eventually wrap around the head.<\/p>\n
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At IRIES H.M., great importance is placed on making the hat bodies in-house, drawing on the experience and techniques the designer has developed over many years.<\/p>\n
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By doing so, each hat body can be sewn with the final shape and finish already in mind.<\/p>\n
Making the hat body, shaping it, and then completing the final finish.<\/p>\n
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From a single length of braid to the finished hat, carrying out every stage of the process within the atelier is one of the defining characteristics of IRIES H.M.<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
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Here, the hat body is being made using an old chain-stitch sewing machine designed specifically for hat-making\u2014one that is no longer in production today.<\/p>\n
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The hat is not sewn with the same touch throughout. Instead, the maker subtly adjusts the pressure of the fingertips from one area to another, gradually shaping the form as the braid is sewn.<\/p>\n
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Because a single narrow strip is continuously sewn into shape, slight variations naturally emerge in both the material and the finished stitching.<\/p>\n
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By carefully reading these subtle differences, the maker gradually brings the hat toward the intended form.<\/p>\n
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Each stitch is made with the final finish already in mind.<\/p>\n
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The designer describes this process as \u201ca world of delicate recipes.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
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The exceptionally narrow 3.5 mm braid is layered over itself as it is sewn.<\/p>\n
Building this into a three-dimensional form while keeping the front, back, left, and right in balance gives a sense of just how demanding the process is.<\/p>\n
When sewing the 3.5 mm Bakkan Sanada, IRIES H.M. uses the finest needles and threads available within the atelier.<\/p>\n
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Once the hat body is complete, it moves on to the shaping process, where it is brought into its intended proportions.<\/p>\n
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The atelier is lined with numerous wooden hat blocks, each differing by just millimetres in the angle and roundness of the head, as well as in its vertical and horizontal proportions.<\/p>\n
These differences may be subtle, but they have a direct effect on the final shape of the hat.<\/p>\n
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The wooden blocks used by IRIES H.M. are original designs, developed to balance sculptural beauty with comfort when worn.<\/p>\n
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Every piece in the IRIES H.M. collection is finished with the brand\u2019s own process known as \u201cTreatment.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
This finishing method was developed from the designer\u2019s 20 years of experience in hat-making.<\/p>\n
By focusing on processes that are fundamental to the making of a hat, the method is designed to bring out depth, dimension, and shadow while preserving the character of the material without placing excessive stress on it.<\/p>\n
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The photo above shows the same Straw material before and after Treatment.<\/p>\n
The piece in the front left is in its original state, while the one at the back right has undergone the Treatment process.<\/p>\n
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Rather than transforming the material into something entirely different, the process deepens its shadows and tonal contrasts while preserving its natural lustre and subtle variations in colour.<\/p>\n
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It is as if the designer touches the finished hat once more, giving it a sense of warmth and human presence.<\/p>\n
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Beyond Straw, IRIES H.M. works with a wide variety of braided materials.<\/p>\n
Depending on the material, the finishing process may go beyond Treatment alone.<\/p>\n
Some are washed, some are worked by hand through rubbing and manipulation, while others are finished solely through the Treatment process.<\/p>\n
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By carefully understanding the characteristics of each material, the designer first shapes the hat with the precision of a craftsman, and then gives it expression through the sensibility of a designer.<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
Precision and sensibility.<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
It is the coexistence of these two qualities within a single hat that defines the making of IRIES H.M.<\/p>\n
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In this article, we have focused mainly on Straw and introduced just one part of the collection.<\/p>\n
At our Paris showroom in October, you will be able to see the full range of braided materials used by IRIES H.M.<\/p>\n
The natural lustre and lightness of the materials, the subtlety of each form, and the depth of shadow created through Treatment are qualities that can only truly be appreciated by holding the hats in your hands.<\/p>\n
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We hope buyers will take the opportunity to experience the hats of IRIES H.M. in person in Paris.<\/p>\n
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<IRIES H.M. Paris Showroom><\/strong><\/p>\nDates: October 1\u20134, 2026<\/strong><\/p>\nVenue: Est Galerie, 76 rue Saint Maur, 75011 Paris<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
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